goons of doom

Last night I enjoyed a few drinks with friends while listening to some tunes from the goons. My fascination with surfer and artist Ozzie Wright has been something that has been long lasting. After watching the Goons of Doom in Hermosa Beach on Saturday, I was reminded yet again why.... The goons put on an awesome show. It was all fun and good vibes. Although I haven't listened to a lot of their music, the show has encouraging me to put some Goons of Doom on my i-pod. If you haven't heard them before, give it a chance and if you have an opportunity to see them live, do it... You are guaranteed a night of high energy and the sharing laughs with all of the others who have discovered the Goons.

The day trestles died

A week ago I moved from Santa Cruz to the mecca of the surf industry, Costa Mesa California. I have been spending most of my days waking up to an early morning surf session at Newport beach. Although 54th or 56th street have been pretty fun, I quickly have recognized a huge difference in the line-up down here. With a strong local vibe, the surf culture in Santa Cruz has always been something that I didn't necessarily agree with.... However, southern California has helped me to see the need for order in the water. Today, for example, while surfing trestles, I had a encounter with a grom that was more than out of the ordinary for me. After being burned once by the kid, he decided that it would be okay for him to paddle directly in front of me while I was going for a left. When three of his desperate kicks to get in the wave nearly came within a foot of my face and my paddle stroke landed mid way down his back, I decided that this would not be tolerated. As he stood up, the leash of the kid caught my elbow and then slid down me arm and into my hand, as if it was begging me to give it a tug. So I snagged the leash and yanked on it just as he decided to try a bottom turn on the waist high wave. Flying out of the water, he became irate. I could not understand it. The guy who just did whatever he could to disrespect me, was angry that I reacted in such a way. After much arguing, and a small scuffle, the guy continued to tell me how I better not ever come to Santa Barbara or else..... Was this a joke..... SB? I told him that there is etiquette in surfing and he needs to learn about it. Based on his reaction, I think he translated that into, " Go get your friend to try and scare me!" And he did just that... I told both of the guys that disrespect like that will not be tolerated with me but they just didn't get it.

Maybe getting mad at these guys was not the answer... It is not there fault that respect and etiquette are not taught here... I was disappointed in myself when it was all said and done, because I allowed a grom to ruin my session. I guess it is something I need to work on. Being aware and accepting to the fact that Orange County doesn't implement order or structure in the line-up the same way as we do in Santa Cruz.

Recess

Today while at the Santa Cruz spring fling surf contest I was introduced to a steezed out little grom who is doing big things. Olin Borgeson, who is ten years old, took his artistic talents to t-shirts forming his clothing company named after what every kid loves... Recess. The kids personal style was something that immediately caught my attention and when I learned of his company I decided to check out some of his stuff. I was stoked on his shirts and think his blog is definitely worth checking out! Not to mention he shreds on a surfboard and skate... Keep killing it Olin!